Searching for your next great bottle? Sicily, Greece, South Africa, and Lodi may have the answers. … [+]
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Have you ever had a sommelier pour you an unexpectedly excellent wine? A white or red from an unknown region, something sparkling from outside of Champagne, or a weird but wonderful bottle from the far reaches of Eastern Europe?
In 2024, sommeliers are predicting a number of unexpected wine regions will step into the spotlight.
“We are starting to see wines come out of less traditional regions, whether newer to grape growing or places that haven’t shared their production worldwide in the past,” says Danielle Miller of 167 Raw Oyster Bar in Charleston points out that. “For example, a favorite on our current list is a Cypriot wine with incredible complexity, and it’s a grape we had never heard of.”
Bertil Jean-Chronberg, an award-winning sommelier and owner of Bonde Fine Wine Shop, predicts that consumers will be surprised by the wine regions stepping into the spotlight in 2024. “They’ll discover regions or states that have been snubbed or forgotten.” He forecasts that “ in the coming year, you’ll see more wines from the Finger Lakes, Long Island, Vermont, Michigan, Canada, Armenia, Hungary, Japan, or Patagonia.”
Ready to explore the world of wine? Here are seven regions worth seeking out.
Sicily
Nicholas Schulman, Director of Wine of RPM Italian in Washington DC, likens White Lotus’ effect on Sicily to Sideways’ effect on California Merlot. “For better or worse the Hollywood effect on wine cannot be ignored! HBO’s White Lotus Season 2 was a mega hit and has led to the surge in the number of Sicilian wine requests I am receiving these days.” And the attention is well deserved. “Siciliy’s active Volcano called Etna is home to some of the world’s most unique, exciting, terroir-driven, high energy wines that rival great Burgundys and Barolos,” says Schulman.
“Etna has been ramping up in world prestige for a while now, and there are some very big players, like Gallo, entering the market there,” says Daniel Beedle, assistant food and beverage director at Kimpton The Forum Hotel. “I’m also seeing more Sicilian reds and whites with some cellar age on wine lists now, showing consumers are seeing these wines as investments.”
Sam Bogue, Flour + Water Hospitality Group’s beverage director, finds that diners at the California restaurant group’s spaces have really warmed to Sicilian reds. “The wines of the Mediterranean’s largest island are so perfectly attuned to the Californian palate, with bottle after bottle showcasing the sun-drenched fruitiness that a lot of our guests love in the Bay Area,” he says. “From the structured and age-worthy wines of Mount Etna to the herbal fruit bombs of Vittoria, there is no limit to what Sicily can bring to the table. While not overly-esoteric, it would be lovely to see this cherished region become more of a viticultural mainstay across larger swaths of the country. Drink more Zibibbo!”
Greece
“Every year, Greek wine is becoming more and more popular,” says Danya Degen, the general manager and wine director of Meli in Washington, DC. “A couple years back guests were just asking for Santorini Assyrtiko, but now Americans are traveling up north and discovering the wines of Naoussa and Drama, and to the islands—especially Crete,” Down the line, she’s expecting folks to ask for a popular Cretan red blend made with Mandilari and Kotsfali. “It’s poised to be the new Côtes du Rhône!”
Schulman attributes the region’s popularity to the number of new Greek and Mediterranean restaurants opening in the United States. “I would expect Mediterranean wines to categorically take off as the greater public has more access to these wines in the marketplace,” he says. “The rise in Hellenic cuisine is fueling the desire for the volcanic, acid driven white Assyrtiko wines of Santorini and the spellbindingly savory reds of the Naousa PDO made from Xinomavro grapes so similar to that of great Nebbiolo.”
Washington State
“I expect quality wines from Washington State to gain more acceptance in the marketplace and on restaurant wine lists.” says Stephen Sherry, the wine director at Melanie Wine Bar. “Most people see the big labels of Charles Smith and Chateau St Michelle in the grocery store aisles and they think that’s all there is to Washington wine. However, smaller producers such as Grammercy, Hedges, and Pursued by Bear are making incredible wines on par with anything you’ll find in California.”
Armenia
While Armenia is home to the world’s oldest known winery, the industry crumbled under Soviet rule (Georgia was designated the winemaking hub, while Armenia got brandy). Over the last two decades, a dedicated wave of producers are reviving the region’s winemaking culture. Expect excellent bottles to start infiltrating wine menus, highlighting indigenous grapes like Voskehat, Areni Noir, Tozot (which, when made well drinks like Cru Beaujolais), and Kangun.
South Africa
“Consider your top five regions,” says Ray Shoals, Sommelier, La Fête Wine Co. and founder of The Black Owned Wine Review. “You probably think of things like Champagne, Barolo, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa. But I think there are some amazing producers from South Africa that can rival many of these for a fraction of the price!”
“There’s so much activity in South Africa,” says sommelier, writer, and author Jim Clarke. “White wine drinkers are embracing Chenin Blanc. South Africa’s most-planted variety took a larger piece of the South African pie within the U.S. market last year, demonstrating that the grape’s ability to appeal equals to Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc drinkers is being recognized and enjoyed.”
Douro Valley
Joseph Lapi, Wine Director for RPM Steak, RPM Italian, and RPM Seafood in Chicago, notes that “every dog has its day, and in 2024, the regions exhibiting great value will shine.” For him, that’s the Douro valley, a Portuguese region renowned for its port. “The region’s steep slopes and hot climate are ideal for growing a variety of indigenous grape varieties, which are used to produce rich, full-bodied wines with bold fruit flavors and a distinct minerality. The combination of unique terroir, quality wines, value, and growing recognition is why I believe Portugal will be the hot ticket in 2024.”
Lazio
Jason Alexander, who handles wine direction for San Francisco’s Che Fico and Che Fico Alimentari, is looking to Lazio this year. “The region is continuing to evolve as a new generation of winemakers embrace indigenous grapes and lean into the unique terroir of the region,” he explains. “Winemakers like Andrea Occhipinti are completely reimagining what is possible with skin contact adding depth and texture to white grapes like Procanico and exploring the possibilities of dry red wines from Aleatico, previously known for its sweet red wines.”